‘Two seas, one river, three canals, eight lakes and 66 locks’. So says the publicity for the journey – and that is just what it is, though there is no mention of the fact that the canal also passes over two large aqueducts. If you are not expecting it, then it can be a bit unnerving to find your ship gently steaming over a motorway!We started at Stockholm on the north-east coast of Sweden on the Baltic. The canal, on its journey south and west, links several lakes in the interior of the country, some large, some only about a mile long. The locks take the ships 93 metres above sea level, the highest point being Lake Vattern, then down again through many staircases of locks, to Goteborg on the north-sea. End-to-end the journey is 190 kilometres, and it takes four days. Leisurely progress, but wonderful scenery.
The canal has a long and interesting history. Work was started in the early 17th century, and linked Gothenburg to the interior so that farming produce might reach the sea ports. Over the next 200 years the canal was enlarged and lengthened. The locks were all improved and by 1800, ships of up to 300 tons could pass through. Today ships of 400 tons, plus a myriad of pleasure craft, run back and forth through the electrically operated and radio controlled lock system.The ship that I travelled on was the JUNO. Built on the canal at Mottala in 1874 she has worked the canal continuously – apart from being laid up in the last war for four years. Originally built as a freighter, over the years she has undergone many changes. The steam engine was removed in 1950, at which time she also became mainly passenger carrying. Juno keeps her old-fashioned appearance and does the run, east-west and back every ten days. On board there are most of the creature comforts, though it has to be said that the lower deck accommodation is a mite cramped – and no ‘en-suite’ facilities either. It’s a long walk down the corridor to the heads!
The crew are few in number, but very versatile, even the chef can sling a good heaving line. Most of the staff seem able to speak several languages. Food throughout the journey was excellent. The bar system is unique. Take what you want – when you want it, and write the details in the bar book. The ship’s souvenir shop and library work on the same principles.Juno – vital statistics: 31.45 meters LOA, 6.68m beam, 2.72m draught, 10 knots max speed, GRT 254. Engine power is two 460hp diesels driving through a common gearbox powering a single variable pitch propeller. Construction is 6mm plate, riveted throughout (this lasts well as the canal is only brackish). The ship is listed by the National Maritime Museum and this now limits the number of changes which the vessel may have. She is believed to be the oldest passenger vessel in regular service in Europe.
Full details of The Juno are now available from the Bartlett Library.
